Prior to my visit to Drakes, my parents had regaled me with tales of their dinner dates at the restaurant before their divorce. My mother referred to it as ‘God’s waiting room’ whilst my father told me that they only serve sweetbreads which are, to put it bluntly, ‘disgusting’. Despite these reviews, as Drakes is one of only three Michelin star restaurants in Surrey and as I am a lover of not good, but exquisite food, I felt I had no choice but to pay it a visit.
The lunchtime menu on a Saturday appeared to be the most appealing option, primarily for financial reasons but also to avoid the dreaded sweetbreads which often feature on the tasting menu. I must admit that I was not blown away by the décor of the restaurant, although it recently underwent refurbishment, however it is simple and elegant allowing one to focus on the main event: the food. Unlike many, ironically named, ‘food’ critics, I do like to concentrate on the food. Of course, there are other aspects which contribute to a memorable dining experience but ultimately I have chosen to eat out for the food. AA Gill’s columns in The Sunday Times Magazines discuss the food for less than a paragraph and by the time I have finished reading them, I still have absolutely no idea what he actually thought about the restaurant he is reviewing.
The list of wine by the glass was not extensive however I was extremely glad to spot a Spanish red on the list. After spending the year in Madrid, for me, there is really nothing more delicious and decadent than a smooth glass of red. Coincidentally, it was also the most expensive glass of wine on the list at £13. This glass of Trus Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 2005 was worth every penny. The wine was sampled by a gentleman dressed as a waiter, whom I assume was doubling for a sommelier, which added a professional touch to the proceedings.
I was pleased with the arrival of the canapés which are not always included when ordering a lunchtime menu. When dining at Galvin La Chapelle in Spitalfields, I had to ask for bread-an outrage if you ask me. The canapés consisted of Curry Meringue with Chicken Liver Parfait, Blue Cheese and Lime Biscuit with Sesame and Rice Cracker, Avocado, and Anchovy Purée with Candy Beetroot. All surprisingly similar in texture and all extremely bland. The chicken liver parfait was subtle in flavour and overpowered by the sugary curry meringue. Considering anchovies are so strong, the rice cracker tasted overwhelmingly of…rice cracker.
The staff were attentive, but not overtly, and the presence of white gladioli on the tables-my favourite flower-was a lovely touch.
The amuse bouche soon followed the canapés and was equally disappointing. An Asparagus Cream, Sorrel Mayonnaise and Beetroot Ice, also known as an unappealing frozen concoction which tasted of nothing at all and I was certainly hard-pressed to find any evidence of the aforementioned mayonnaise..
I opted for a vegetarian dish to start as surprise surprise, as my dear father had warned, the other option was of course sweetbreads. Perhaps Drakes needs to be slightly more innovative with their menu choices as sweetbreads have consistently appeared on their menu for the last twenty years or so. The Clay Baked Cauliflower, Green Tomato Relish, Curry, Sorrel Mayonnaise (again) was better than expected although over-salted and whilst this time the mayonnaise was evidently on the plate, it contributed nothing at all. The green tomato and ginger relish, on the other hand, was absolutely divine as was the artistic presentation.
It was between the starter and main that I began to evaluate the other diners in the restaurant and it was at that point that I realised the clientèle at Drakes are far from refined. Practically every man was channelling Alfie from Eastenders with flowery shirts and excessive gestures, sat opposite their blonde partners who re-applied their lipstick every ten minutes or so. One gentleman in particular was enjoying his tasting menu to such an extent that he completed each course by licking his plate. This may be acceptable in Asia but we are in Surrey, darling.
The Roast Hake, Broad Bean, Elderflower Onion, Pink Fir Potato and Lavender Sauce was yet another fantastic example of how to make fabulous ingredients amount to nothing. Not completely terrible as the hake was cooked to perfection, crisp and brown on the outside with the flaky whiteness of the meat, soft and buttery. The lavender sauce had once been a mousse of some description but turned into a watery mess a short time later. And elderflower-or should I say pickled-onion? Quite horrible actually.
At this point, I reached the conclusion that it was most certainly time for another glass of red, this time choosing the cheapest offering on the wine list; a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Languedoc region of France. At £5.50, it was superb and whilst Drakes may not be pioneers of top-notch cuisine, they have certainly produced a marvellous wine list.
Finally, a dessert of Yorkshire Strawberries, Coconut, Lime and Lemon Thyme Ice Cream cheered up the proceedings. A wonderful combination of textures and flavours which at last gave me something to smile about. The coconut panna cotta was simply beautiful although I may be biased as coconut is one of my absolute favourite ingredients. The Caribbean on a plate-excluding the Yorkshire strawberries, naturally.
Unfortunately, despite the efforts of the staff, the wine and the dessert, I am not convinced. For a restaurant with a Michelin star to its name, Drakes did not match my expectations, which is especially sad as my other options in Surrey are limited. The three course set lunch menu, plus tea and coffee, will set you back £30, although I wouldn’t make a particular effort to visit…unless you are a lover of sweetbreads and have a collection of floral shirts that is.
The Sophisticated Palate
thesophisticatedpalate 